Single Bottle - Standard - 750ml
Regular Price: HK$835.00
Special Price HK$599.00
Sleek, transparent and immensely appealing, with an open texture, delicate structure and harmony, persisting on the finish, displaying dark berry, orange peel, black tea and loamy earth complexity. The finish sails on. Drink now through 2023. 949 cases made.
The 2013 Pinot Noir Ceras, blended blind as usual, is about "mineralité" according to winemaker Maggie Harrison. There is some whole cluster in this blend, around 11%. It has a very delineated bouquet with cranberry and crushed strawberry, crushed stone, very Pommard-like in style and extremely well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy and lace-like tannin, more black fruit than red; conspicuously saline in the mouth and revealing a subtle marine influence towards the finish that comes across as Old World in style. It is another wonderful 2013 from Antica Terra - not cheap, but quality never usually is. Winemaker Maggie Harrison is a maelstrom of emotions. She wears her heart on her sleeve and so when a biblical storm threatens to ruin her harvest, naturally she is going to be...emotional. In fact, more than half a year later, she seems to only just be recovering from the trauma. “I have never had such a hard vintage in my life,” she explained as we sat down in her barrel cellar. “It was unbelievably unnerving. It rained seven inches in 72 hours and nothing was ripe before that. I went into one of our best vineyards after six days and there was a breeze. You could smell the vinegar. There were fruit flies in the bunches and we could not take the fruit. Every person at the sorting table had their heads down and I stood at the end of the sorting table cutting everything out - nothing imperfect would get past me. Five days into sorting we had a mountain of fruit behind each person and I thought we were not going to make it. We threw away seven times as much fruit as usual and bottled only 64% of what was barreled. If I knew during the harvest that I would have made a wine I liked, I wouldn’t have been so stressed out.” Tasting the wines, you would not have guessed that Maggie had been a woman on the verge of a nervous breakdown during the harvest; and in some ways, it unwittingly played into her hand, because the style of 2013 suits her wines. As usual she selected the barrels to make her top label, Antikythera and then worked through the other blends. In the end, Ceras represents around 46% of the vineyard and Botanica 26%. The tumultuous season also led to the creation of a new label – Obelin. This comes from 11 obdurate barrels that Maggie found difficult to blend into the Antikythera, though such was the quality that she could never consider selling it off in bulk. In the end she chose seven barrels and made this separate bottling. Antica Terra’s prices are relatively expensive for Oregon. That said, you do get a distinctive, complex and beautifully crafted wine in return for your money. They are made with painstaking detail by an exacting winemaker that clearly refuses to cut corners, much like her mentor Manfred Kankl. The result is a portfolio of wines that are equidistant between Oregon and Europe, exploiting the strengths of both. I am fascinated to see how they will evolve in bottle, yet conversely they are deceptively approachable thanks to the fineness of tannins and levels of fruit - but underneath, tucked away, is a sense of earthiness, something almost...feral. Maggie may have suffered for her “art” – but it was worth it in the end.
96 Robert Parker
The 2009 Cristal literally shimmers on the palate, showing great depth and purity in its sumptuous layers of fruit. It is a magnificent wine endowed with superb length and exceptional overall balance. The 2009 Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. The percentage of wine aged in oak is 15%, which is down slightly from previous vintages.
Cristal is a remarkably balanced and refined champagne whose length is inimitable. It has a silky texture and fruity aromas, complemented by a powerful mineral quality with white fruit and citrus notes. Cristal is a wine that keeps well: it can be conserved for over twenty years without losing its freshness and character.