2004 Sine Qua Non The Rejuvenators

Jul 1, 2014
Jeb Dunnuck
96
A gorgeous white that didn’t start to shine until after two hours in the decanter, Manfred’s 2004 The Rejuvenators is a blend of 56% Roussanne, 24% Viognier and 20% Chardonnay, aged in 55% new French oak, that came mostly from John Alban’s site in the Edna Valley, but with 9% of the blend from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard. Light gold in color, with a rich, full-flavored and voluptuously-styled bouquet of white peach, white flowers, honeyed apricots and a tinge of marzipan, this incredible effort hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a thick, unctuous texture, and brilliant concentration, and no sense of weight or heaviness. Given the concentration level here, as well as the overall balance and freshness, it will continue to evolve for decades.



Aug 1, 2006
Robert M. Parker, Jr.
96
The 2004 The Rejuvenators, an intriguing blend of 56% Roussanne, 24% Viognier, and 20% Chardonnay primarily from the Alban Vineyard with small quantities emerging from the Krankl’s own Eleven Confessions Vineyard, exhibits a medium gold color along with a beautiful, honeyed, waxy bouquet of buttery citrus, oranges, and nectarines. Good acidity buttresses this full-bodied white with a superb tactile mouthfeel as well as stunning layers and length. This brilliant wine should age well for 4-5 years or longer. Vineyard sources are gradually changing at Sine Qua Non as a movement to 100% estate fruit from vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills and sites near the winery in Ventura County come into full production. However, at present some grapes emanate from other sources, particularly white grapes from the Alban Vineyard, and Grenache and Syrah from Alban, Alta Mesa, Bien Nacido, Shadow Canyon, and White Hawk vineyards. Yields were unbelievably small in 2003 (white varietals yielded .9 tons of fruit per acre, Pinot Noir 1.64 tons per acre, Grenache .32 tons per acre, and Syrah 1.20 tons per acre). In 2004, white varietal yields were 1.49 tons per acre, Pinot Noir 1.19 tons per acre, Grenache 1.04 tons per acre, and Syrah a whopping 1.48 tons per acre. Yields rose by 20-40% in 2005. Longtime readers know that I consider these offerings to be about as remarkable as New World wines can be. They possess extraordinary richness and nuances as well as superb balance, purity, and aging potential. The whites are whole cluster pressed and go straight to barrel without any stabilization or settling, and everything is fermented with indigenous yeasts. No racking takes place until bottling, which is usually more than a year after the harvest. The reds are 100% destemmed, although Grenache stems have been utilized on occasion. One to two ton open top fermenters are used, and following a cold soak that can last up to seven days, the wines are fermented with 2-3 daily punch downs. They are kept on their skins for a maximum of 2 plus weeks. All malolactic takes place in barrel, and the wines are bottled 18-24 months after the harvest with minimal clarification. Manfred Krankl, a true believer in radical viticulture, practices extensive crop-thinning, shoot positioning, etc. The meticulous attention to detail is evident in both the vineyard and the winery.



Jun 1, 2005
Robert M. Parker, Jr.
95
The light gold-colored 2004 The Rejuvenators, fashioned from fruit sourced from John Alban’s vineyard, is a blend of 44% Roussanne, 34% Chardonnay, and 22% Viognier. In keeping with the vintage character, it exhibits an extraordinary fragrance of brioche, white currants, honeysuckle, waxy candied citrus, and tropical fruits. Full-bodied, with good underlying acidity as well as an unobtrusive touch of new oak, this full-throttle yet elegant, vibrant, dry white should drink well for 4-5 years. But who will be able to resist it for that long? The world’s most profound wines are always made by the same kind of people ... artists, craftspeople, revolutionaries, and traditionalists who have one overwhelming trait in common ... they are irrefutably dedicated to the pursuit of excellence, and their hearts, souls, and enormous talents are reflected in wines of singular personality and achievement. There are never any compromises, so it is no surprise that what takes place in these cellars is the transformation of a commonplace beverage into a form of drinkable art!Manfred Krankl and his charming wife, Elaine (referred to by Krankl as “E”), are on a roll given what has emerged from their funky warehouse/garage winery located in what looks like a discarded Hollywood set from the movie Mad Max. Finding a bottle or two of Sine Qua Non is no easy task since virtually all these wines are sold to longtime mailing list clients as well as the country’s finest upscale restaurants. However, some relief is in sight as Krankl is beginning to get fruit from his own Eleven Confessions Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills. Moreover, he planted another vineyard in Ventura County on a bald outcropping that should produce some fascinating Rhone varietals. The upcoming releases all reveal Krankl’s magic touch, and like some of the finest wineries working with Rhone varietals, Manfred Krankl is a creative blender, recognizing that blends generally result in more nuances and flavor complexity than a single varietal cuvee.(Release date 11/06)